Posts tagged Photo tips

Miniature Photo is a one of photoshop trick that turn real image,object, scene or whatever to fake model. Below is the example of miniature photo: -

It is important to choose the right photo for this miniature effect. Photos that taken from above with wide viewing angle is tend to be more suitable for this effect.

How to make it:

1. Open an image that you want to edit and press ‘D’ (No.1) to turn the default black and white background/foreground color. Make sure the foreground color is black.

2. Press G (No.2) or choose gradient tool. At the top setting, select Reflected Gradient (No.3) 

3. Select Edit in Quick Mask Mode by pressing Q

4. Drag a vertical line or horizontal line (No. 5) on your image. Start from where you want the focus center to be and drag upwards to where you want the image to be out of focus.

 

6. Now, go to Filter > Blur > Lens Blur.  

7. Adjust the Iris and Specular Highlights settings until you satisfied . Here’s my settings:

8. Press CTRL+D on your keyboard to remove the dashed lines on your image.

This fake miniatute effect requires a fair amount of trial and error. You may not get something you like the first time. Step backward several times and repeat step 4, 5, 6 and 7 until you get something nice. Try a different focus area or adjust your Lens Blur settings to get something different.

The next few steps will enhance the coloring of your image, so it’ll look more like miniature model.

9. Go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation. Increase the Master saturation to around 35-45%.

10. Next, go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Level. Slide the black slider a little bit to the right to change the input levels until you get a better contrast on your picture. You can also slide the white slider to the left if you need to.

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•  Higher image quality. The pixel value are more accurate and less posterization
•  Bypassing of undesired steps in the camera’s processing,including sharpening and noise reduction
• The maximum amount of image detail compared the JPEG images. Raw image typically lossless compression, but JPEG image typically save using a lossy compression format.
• Finer control. Allow us to manipulate more parameter by using RAW conversion software(such as lightness,white balance, hue etc..) and do so with greater variability.
• More precisely highlight,shadows and saturated color.
• The color space can be set to whatever is desired..
• Different demosaicing algorithms can be used.
• The contents of raw files include more information, and potentially higher quality, than the converted results, in which the rendering parameters are fixed, the color gamut is clipped, and there may be quantization and compression artifacts.
• Large transformations of the data, such as increasing the exposure of a dramatically under-exposed photo, result in less visible artifacts when done from raw data than when done from already rendered image files. Raw data leave more scope for both corrections and artistic manipulations, without resulting in images with visible flaws such as Posterization.

• Color space – keep Adobe RGB for maximum compatibility when it comes to printing and sharing your photo
• Sharpening – try it out on various settings to get sharp and clear image on the computer without harsh pixellation on finer detail.
• Saturation – make sure not make to far when ramp up the color saturation.
• Hue - Some cameras have more adjustment than others in the JPEG processing menu,but this is on you will want to leave unchanged as it alters the hue of the color spectrum and can throw color way off.
• Contrast – this is one adjustment can make in digital darkroom to boost impact, make sure you wake the setting up for really deep blacks and bright highlights in your JPEGs
• Brightness – Leave it alone at the default setting. Images can appear washed out or suffer lack of contrast otherwise,

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Another option to reduce editing time is white balance. To getting most accurate result for your photo is by choosing Manual White Balance setting. To get correct color temperature, select manual/custom white balance from the White Balance Menu, activate your camera’s calibration button and then shot of a grey or white area so the camera can calibrate the White Balance. Here the option you can choose from your WB option:

1. Sunny – a Brilliant all round outdoor setting
2. Flash -
3. Cloudy – great for dull days.
4. shady – produce warmer tones when shooting in shade.
5. Kelvin – Produce a WB according to the temperature of light in degrees Kelvin. Only use this if you’re positive of light temperature
6. Pre – best weapon of choice when the light temperature is mixed
7. Auto - leave it alone if you want retain control.
8. Tungsten – Use this for most indoor tungsten lighting
9. Fluorescent – prevent tube and strip lighting looking green.

Auto White Balance

Present White Balance = Tungsten

click these website to get more information about white balance in photography:

• http://ronbigelow.com/articles/white/white_balance.htm
• http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/white-balance/wb-concept.html
• http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/white-balance.htm

Source: Digital Camera, page 47, issue 42 June 2009

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Selecting the correct ISO in-camera is probably the most critical setting you can make because it’s impossible to effectively reduce noise later without trading off sharpness and reducing contras. Choose the lowest ISO possible on your camera at all time for the best result. Pixels will be sharper,colors punchier and contrast at its best.

ISO 100

Choosing the lowest setting of ISO give the finest result possible as the sensor can perform at its optimum setting

ISO 400

at ISO 400 the camera increase the grain, or electrical sensitivity, of the sensor and the results are more interference.

ISO 1600

at this ISO, camera boost the sensor signal at the expense of sharpness, contrast and color balance.

Source: Digital Camera Magazine, page 47, issue 42 June 2009

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